Purs · Gourmethotel Convent
➤ Steinweg 30-32, 56626 Andernach (Andernach) , Rheinland-Pfalz, Germany
Cozinha Criativa, Frutos Do Mar, Francês, Sorvete, Cafés
"How to turn a lively little town on the edge of the Voreifel into a veritable culinary hotspot, you can see in Andernach. An investor group is sent to the place, not only with a variety of first-class Michelin-star restaurants, but also with a stylish hotel, as one would hardly expect in this form. The Italian restaurant “Ai Pero” with Frank Seyfried (Stations Gualtiero Marchesi, Alfons Schubeck and Schloss Elmau) and the Asian restaurant “YOSO” with Sarah Henke (Stations at Dieter Müller, Sven Elverfeld and as a chef in the “Spices” on Sylt) had already opened near the market and a Michelin star was boiled. We had visited the “YOSO” last year and were hit hard. But of course, the kitchen of Sarah Henkes Mann, Christian Eckhardt, who is responsible for the restaurant at the Hotel “PURS” and who received two Michelin stars in his last station, Villa Rothschild in Königstein. However, the opening of the hotel was delayed in the former old law firm and restaurant, as is the case with historical excavations more often. The result can now be seen, however, as the house designed by Belgian designer and antiquarium Axel Vervoordt has a style security that made the “PURS” one of the most exciting hotel openings of last year. The combination of old and modern elements, paired with a magnificent collection of art objects, is extremely successful and radiates comfortable cosiness in every room. The fact that one feels welcome from the first moment as a guest in the “PURS” must also do with the fact that the service is lived here much differently than in many other hotels. You do not relax the registration formalities at a reception, but you only get a welcome drink in the lobby where you can also take your aperitif in the evening, you will receive a welcome drink, the first small items from the kitchen and sign the registration note at any location. The luggage is already in the room, the car is parked by the staff. I haven't arrived anywhere for a long time. The restaurant itself is one of the most beautiful I could experience lately. Clear lines, sufficient distances between the tables, wall-to-wall windows, kitchen views and a warm, sophisticated light-regy ensure that you feel comfortable automatically. We take our aperitif in the equally cozy bar, which serves as a breakfast room the next day. In addition, the kitchen serves as first greetings almost a trip through the three restaurants in the group. The Italian restaurant “Ai Pero” is a shaker of Schüttelbrot with marinated and fluffy mackerel with Gremolata cream. The “YOSO” is represented by a Tatar with a spicy mayonnaise and the “PURS” itself presents itself with a wind pocket filled with a quiche Lorraine Crème. The idea itself is already very original and the execution excellent with a clear taste that every house is actually very beautiful. Shake bread with inlaid and braided mackerel Profiterole with quiche Lorraine Cream Tartar with spicy mayonnaise For the very good sourdough bread and the still warm Maronen Plunderbäck there are excellent salt butter from Normandy and an even better pumpkin bread. Sauerteigbrot with Marons Plunderbäck salt butter pumpkinbrei The first Amuse Bouche combines thin slices of cod with a salad of very creamy quinoa and a Red Bete Cherry Sud. In order not to cover the fish, the wort remains here. It dominates a slightly earthy undertone. A good start. Amuse Bouche: Cod with Quinoa Salat and Red Bete Kirsch Sud As a further greeting, the kitchen sends a very deconstructed version of the Rhenish classic “Himmel un Ääd”, which at first glance hardly reveals the original. The flotation is found as a crispy edge, the roasted onions as a foam. This is lush, full, creamy and simply great. Amuse Bouche: Sky and Ääd An impressive variant of the appetizer classic Entenleberterrine presents us Christian Eckhardt with his version that sets the foie grass with green cabbage, cream and dehydrates as well as with hazelnuts. A sorbet by Williams Christ Birnen and a small compote thereof round off with a pleasantly matching fruity note and beautiful temperature contrasts. First of all, I like this combination of classical craftsmanship and very modern integration, because I have not yet had the duck livers and green cabbages in this composition. Overall there is a lot of texture in the game. The Croissant serves a beautiful alternative to the otherwise ubiquitous Brioche. Duck liver hazelnuts green cabbage – leaf croissant With the next gear it becomes a bit fresher but again with a earthy undertone. Left and right, the sardine fillets include a mixture of pumpkin and mushrooms, a Yuzu marinade provides acidity and freshness. This band is dressed again. Sardine pumpkin forest mushroom – Calamansi The principle in “PURS” provides that every guest from the offer can compile his menu itself. We have booked an arrangement that offers a 5-speed menu, but we extend this by a gear and that already offers us a killer combination in the description. Tortellini, which are filled with wonderfully creamy Fontina cheese, calfsbries and Macadamia nuts, would already work magnificently alone. With the Alba truffle on the table above the plate this is no longer torn. A great band! Alba Truffle Fontina Macadamia – Heartbries ... with truffle The St. Pierre in the following passage is fried quite rustic at the point and with cauliflower in various textures. Lardo gives melt, black mother is processed as pure. This is round, harmonious and very harmonious. St. Pierre Blumenkohl Lardo Schwarze Walnuß Perfectly prepared is also the bridge in the main course, which is accompanied by painaken in structures, red cabbage in small segments and dead drums. Under this winter pleasure ensemble there is still a sweet shoulder, which is super delicate and just crushed on the fork. The spice is very intense, very dense and concentrated and completes an excellent dish. Luckily, the service leaves the saucers on every walk on the table and this time no drop of it goes back to the kitchen. Eckhardt presents itself as a great Saucenmeister in this menu. Reh Pastinake – Red Cabbage – Spice Jus For Predessert, the service is also a small bowl of wood carvings next to the actual plate. It is the basis for the ice Hickory, which together with an anger of seasonal fruits and a Dörrobst chip makes the Pré Dessert. The BBQ taste of the ice is quite discreet but still noticeable. I like the basic idea, but I could have had a more courageous emphasis on the smoke aroma. Pré Dessert: Hickory ice cream with salad of seasonal fruits and Dörrobst Schokoladig it gets in dessert, especially in the form of a very creamy gooseache that slang over the plate and in the form of air chocolate. The fact that it does not become too sweet is mainly due to the inserted locks and the slingshot, which contribute an acidic note as a counterpoint. Red beet and herbal tea are skillfully incorporated as thin crispy leaves and offer a fine earthy note. This is original and very well done. By the way, cherry wine from Denmark is a surprisingly suitable companion. Chocolate Cru Virunga Gorge Red Bete – Herbal tea At the end of this menu we switch to the bar where there is already a plate with brush and spatula. The importance of this will soon come to us. The Petits Fours are presented in the “PURS” in a highly original form by the chefs themselves. In addition to a bowl with Roibusch vanilla sorbet, a large sugar ball can be dropped on the prepared dish unmedied. Gold coins with a Kalamansi cream and filled stones and chocolate crumbs are distributed from the inside. It is all edible, but if you do not want to pick up pure sugar, it is recommended to take the brush to help and sort the case. This presentation, which was explained to us by the chef, is her augmenting work-up that excavations in the hotel and new building delayed completion by a three-quarter year. Post Dessert: Roibusch Vanille Sorbet Petits Fours Not only the hotel opening of the “PURS” can be called spectacular, the restaurant and the kitchen of Christian Eckhardt also meets this. His style is hard to pack in some drawer and he doesn't want to do it as he explains in conversation. Nevertheless, it is unmistakable that Eckhardt has a solid classical basis that is not surprising when one of the most impressive stations in his Vita is his time with Claus Peter Lumpp in the “Bareiss”. The large sauce craft or the perfect duck-leberterrine testifies. However, the terrine is a perfect example of how it is possible to catapult a traditional theme with bold combinations and an impressively beautiful presentation in the present and to look absolutely modern. The fact that we were very enthusiastic this evening is not only in the beautiful ambience, the always attentive and warm service or the excellent wine tour, but above all, of course, in the excellent menu that showed itself without weakness. The dishes are decorated with great attention to detail, often composed, but consistently harmonious. Craftsmanship is at the top level anyway. For me, this was a performance at a clear two-star level. Whether the Michelin can get through to give this new opening from the stand, this award remains to be seen. It would be worth it for Christian Eckhardt and his team. In any case he put And then on the culinary map very far forward. As always on my blog: table notes. de/purs andernach/"
